Nana's in Durham

I took my parents to Nana's (http://www.nanasdurham.com/) a couple of weeks ago to show them one of Durham's finest restaurants.  Jessica and I had been here once before, to celebrate my birthday, and it was one of the best meals I've had in the Triangle.  For this occasion, my parents and I were celebrating my upcoming wedding so we wanted one final meal out!

To start, the three of us split two appetizers; the polenta with pork belly and the special fried softshell crab.  The polenta was exceptionally creamy (I've never seen a chef accomplish such a texture), possibly owing to the ricotta cheese component, and had a perfect flavor to match with the tender pork belly.  The pork belly was confitted and had great meaty flavor that seemed to infuse the whole dish and tie things together.  The fried softshell crab was equally delicious, in the exact opposite way.  Contrasting the creaminess of the polenta, the crab was beyond crispy but still extremely light.  The flour breading had just enough flavor to pair well with the fresh crab flavor, and the surrounding sauces added good acid taste.  The two appetizers exceeded our table's lofty expectations and set the perfect stage for our main courses.

I chose the duck breast with carrot-foie gras sauce for my main course.  With this, I had the couscous and herb spaetzle as my side dishes.  I'll start with the duck; it was, of course, prepared perfectly to medium rare with rendered fat and a slightly crisp edge.  The duck taste was bold and terrific, and the sauce with it added an extra level with the punch of the foie gras flavor.  I'd never had this combination, instead normally having a sweet sauce with duck, but this original take was much appreciated and enjoyed.  My side choices were equally impressive; the couscous had great texture and was mixed with Moroccan flavors and spices while the spaetzle was unbelievably good.  Instead of the soft texture normally found with this German dough-like item, this was crispy and slightly flattened, giving a great textural component to an already tasty package.

Along with my meal, I tried the main proteins from both my mom's and dad's dishes.  Both had fish; halibut and grouper I believe, and both were fantastically fresh and flavorful.  One had a mushroom-based sauce and the other was Greek-inspired; I typically don't favor either of these flavor profiles but really enjoyed both here.

Just as with my first trip to Nana's, I was yet again impressed this time around.  The quality of ingredients is always high and the flavor combinations and dish execution cannot be matched by many chefs.  I'd also specifically point out just how good the service, and our particular server, was on this trip.  We never waited for water or drink refills, and the waiter was willing to make recommendations and decisions quickly to aid in serving us the food we'd like most.  All in all, anyone in the Triangle should be looking for the next chance to celebrate something at Nana's to take in fine dining at its best.

The Oxford in Raleigh

In the past month, I've had the chance to try both lunch and dinner at the Oxford (http://www.oxfordraleigh.com/), which is an English gastropub located on Fayetteville Street in downtown Raleigh.  My typical visits to the Oxford are at night to hang out at their bar and listen to live music, but I was pleasantly surprised with their food, both in variety and taste.

For lunch, I tried their fish and chips, which is cod fried in a Newcastle Brown Ale batter.  The fish was extremely mild and fresh-tasting, with the beer-batter providing most of the flavor (as it should).  The crispiness of the batter was excellent, although it became a bit soggy just as I was finishing the huge portion.  I could really taste the beer used in the preparation, and I felt that with a little salt, the fish flavor was spot-on for an "authentic" dish.  With my meal, I had actual chips, which were homemade, rather than fries (as are traditional) and was very pleased.  Overall, I think their lunch menu has a lot of good options (my dad had a turkey reuben that he enjoyed) and the taste, at least for mine, was great.

Jessica and I shared dinner at the Oxford another night with friends.  We started with their calamari and also their polenta cake special, which was accompanied by a tomato and beef ragout.  Both appetizers had good taste and came fresh to the table, and were plenty large to satisfy the four of us.  The calamari was good though nothing overly special, but the polenta was a unique combination of textures and flavors that really pleased the table. 

For my main course, I had the cranberry and pomegranate glazed duck breast with butternut squash puree and mashed potatoes.  The duck was perfectly cooked to medium rare, and the sweet fruit sauce was a good compliment.  I would prefer the duck fat / skin to be a bit crispier, but it was flavorful and rendered down properly so I can't really complain.  Both of my sides dishes were executed perfectly; the squash puree was surprisingly sweet, flavorful, and smooth (a huge eye-opener for a non-vegetable eater like me) while the mashed potatoes were of the standard preparation but still very good.

I came away from my lunch and dinner at the Oxford very impressed with their food and service.  The menus are filled with authentic British choices while still being open enough for those wanting something more American, and the flavors on everything I tried were top-notch.  They executed familiar dishes well and also introduced a few new taste combinations that were very successful.  With its location in the heart of Fayetteville Street, with fun bars to both sides and all around, I'd highly recommend the Oxford as a great place for dinner to start the night out in Raleigh.

Heron's in Cary

For a night of celebration, Jessica and I decided to try Heron’s at the Umstead, last year’s best restaurant from the News and Observer.  We went once before and had their bar menu (which was excellent), but for this trip, we wanted to sample the menu at the actual restaurant.  Our plans were thwarted slightly by the hosting of a local wine dinner (which I won’t detail here since I don’t understand wine at all), but we decided to go with it anyway.

Before dinner, we were treated to a glass of wine and a small bite of crab salad, which was made of fresh crab, cucumber, avocado, and a spicy element.  The freshness of this one-bite appetizer was unbelievable, and while the flavors were mild, they set a good tone for the rest of the dinner.

Our meal began with an amuse bouche, a pea and mint panna cotta served with tangerine.  A single bite, this "dish" had far better flavor than I could have imagined for being made from peas.  The acid from the tangerine added to the overall taste as well, providing contract to an otherwise creamy texture.  Just as the small bite did ahead of dinner, this really brought a fresh, unique flavor to the table and continued on a good path for the starter course.

The menu

The first course was two large sea scallops served with a sunchoke puree, trout roe, and lemon peel.  First and foremost, the scallops were ENORMOUS, yet cooked perfectly just through and amazingly tender.  The natural sweetness of the scallops made them stand well on their own, yet the sweet, acidic addition from the lemon peel worked well, as did the creamy, savory puree.  The trout roe was better than I expected, but not something I felt was needed (maybe because I kept thinking what it was, and also that I dislike trout).  Together as a single taste combination, this first course was incredibly unique and flavorful.  Had this been the main course, I would have walked away entirely satisfied!

The second course was lamb ravioli; three ravioli filled with braised lamb and accompanied by a mint jus.  The presentation was an added bonus; the server poured the jus around the bowl after bringing it to the table.  The ravioli were strong in lamb flavor but may have lacked a bit of creativity to take the dish to another level.  Crispy sweetbread bites were also part of the dish; I'd never had them but was thoroughly impressed by the deep flavor.  I quickly ate this entire dish (which was again hearty) as it was delicious, but it didn't quite match the opening effort.

For the main course, we had 48 hour short rib with marrow potato custard.  The short rib was prepared two ways; the first was typical of what I expected (braised), while the other was almost a "steak" cooked sous vide to remove the toughness.  Taking the second first, I was impressed with the cooking technique and enjoyed the flavor when eaten with the sweet sauce on the plate.  The "steak" was more tender than normal for short rib, but still slightly tough.  As for the braised short rib, I loved it.  It was incredibly tender and the fat that was braised down melted perfectly with the beef flavor.  I would have liked more of the braised and less of the sous vide, but I was pleased with both efforts and felt they did a great service to beef short ribs.  The marrow potato custard was unique but quite tasty; it reminded me of a truffled potato croquette but was obviously creamy in texture (think a mix between potato puree and softened butter) and served cool.  I'd never had something like this, but really enjoyed it.

For dessert, I'll let Jessica take over...

To conclude the dinner, we were served dry (on purpose, I suppose) chocolate cake pieces with semi-confit strawberries, cheerwine jello and milk chocolate cubes with a whipped cream. I was honestly let down. After such an amazing meal I was expecting something really delicious. While I respect the various skills used to create such a dish, I didn't think this was the perfect dish to end such a delicious meal. I would have liked to have tried a variation of a molten chocolate cake, or an impressive slice of cheesecake.

Dessert sampler

Fortunately the dessert was able to redeem itself when the servers delivered an after the dessert course sample dessert plate which included a lemon macaroon, a mini bundt cake, a jellied fruit cube and a chocolate caramel bon bon. All of these little gems were delicious, but my favorite was the mini bundt cake. It appeared cake-like but was actually a custard consistency in the middle. Absolutely delicious!

Also I think the apricot scones are worth noting; I ate three with my meal and was able to snag two to take home with me for breakfast the following morning (Thanks to our server, Rich). The scones were fruity, but not too sweet. They weren't hard, either. Hands down these were the best scones I've ever had.

Heron's stands along with the Fearrington House as one of the two true top echelon restaurants in the Triangle area.  The service all night was impeccable, with the team always knowing when to converse and when to quietly fill a water glass.  Each dish was served with new silverware and plates suited for the particular course, a minor touch that is unfamiliar to all but the most high end diners.  And as good as the service was, the food was even better.  Each course had the finest ingredients, original ideas spun off of familiar classics, and fantastic flavors with each bite.  Heron's truly is world class in every sense and should be experienced by anyone wanting a truly special meal for a great celebration.

42nd Street Oyster Bar in Raleigh

With my aunt and uncle in town for the Easter weekend, we went to 42nd Street Oyster Bar for dinner.  The 42nd Street Oyster Bar is a Raleigh institution, open since 1931, serving all types of seafood (raw, fried, etc.) as well as steaks and chops in a festive atmosphere complete with a huge raw bar and a bar area with live music at night.  The restaurant is always crowded and hectic, but we were able to get a reservation for dinner at 6:15 PM (a bit early but oh well) by calling just a few hours ahead.

I had eaten here probably six or seven times before this trip, and on every occasion, I ordered the fried shrimp platter.  They fry the shrimp perfectly and give you more than you can eat in one sitting, but ultimately, I'd say it's a bit more expensive than you'd expect for what you get (don't get me wrong, it is delicious, but it's just something that a lot of places do well).  On this visit, however, I wanted to try something different to really see what they had to offer in the way of good, fresh fish.

Our table split two appetizers, both recommended by the server (who was really good all night for our table); the fried calamari and the blackened bacon-wrapped sea scallops.  Fried calamari is almost always the same; crispy and fairly flavorful but with slightly chewy calamari inside (and I love it every time I order it).  At 42nd Street, however, I truly feel like they put theirs in a category above the rest.  The breading is crunchy and not greasy, but more importantly, the actual calamari is tender and flavorful rather than chewy and bland.  For me to notice this tells you just how different and impressive it was!  As for the blackened scallops, they were large (normally bacon-wrapped scallops are of the bay variety) and perfectly cooked, with an excellent seasoning that matched perfectly with both the scallop and the bacon.  To summarize, the appetizers were out of this world and set the stage for a great meal (the hush puppies are also fantastic, and sometimes ruin your appetite here by being irresistible).

Straying from my standard fried shrimp platter, I ordered their pan-seared Pacific tuna with wasabi and ginger dipping sauces for my main course (accompanied by mashed potatoes, which were actually really good, and not just because I had low expectations and didn't really care one way or the other).  The first thing that stuck out on the plate when I got my entree was the quantity of tuna; there were three HUGE medallions that each were probably four or five ounces.  Each was seared perfectly with cool, rare, red tuna in the middle.  The sesame crust was a perfect flavor enhancer to match with the sweet dipping sauces, although the tuna itself had far more taste than I've had in other preparations.  Without much difficulty, I was able to get through my entire plate, as it truly was the best tuna I've ever had.  Normally I'd say tuna is good when there is mild flavor and it is tender, but this packed plenty of taste on its own, but reached a whole new level of enjoyment when the wasabi and ginger sauces were combined for a bite.

After limiting myself in ordering, and limiting my view and opinion of the restaurant, I finally opened up and enjoyed 42nd Street Oyster Bar for all it had to offer.  While the live music and festive atmosphere make it a fun place to go, I really never put the food on my short list of desirable seafood restaurants in Raleigh.  Now, however, after a meal filled with classic dishes prepared perfectly with amazing flavor, I can't wait to return to try something new.

Posta Tuscan Grille in Raleigh

For my friend's birthday, a group of people went to Posta Tuscan Grille (http://www.postatuscangrille.com/) to celebrate.  The restaurant is located in the lobby of the Marriott City Center on Fayetteville Street in Raleigh, and is relatively new.  I'd heard good things about the food but wanted to try it myself since I'd recently eaten at (and LOVED) Vivace in North Hills.

Our table was situated with a whole glass window showing off Fayetteville Street and the walkers-by, and the service was okay for a table of 15 or so.  They added 20% to the bill as gratuity under a "service charge" which was a bit aggressive and also potentially deceptive to customers to get more money, but ultimately I didn't have any issue with our waiter or the general service.

One random thing that happened to a majority of our table... they set the table with each person's bread plate covered in olive oil, leading to a barrage of spills and "hand dips" without realizing!  It became a running joke for the rest of the evening, which is probably actually a net positive, but it certainly was unusual.  And just for the record, I thought the bread was solid (although I chose to use butter rather than the olive oil).

For my appetizer, I went with the salami pizza, which proved to be quite a hearty choice.  I expected a thin, relatively small pie as a first course but instead was greeted to a full medium-sized pizza covered with fresh Italian meat and melted cheese.  The crust wasn't as thin as I'd hope, but everything was served hot and tasted extremely fresh, resulting in nice flavor.  I'd probably categorize the pizza as "good to very good" but there was a lack of originality / authenticity as it was a pretty standard preparation in the mold of a better chain.

For dinner, I had the pappardelle bolognese to compare with the effort at Vivace (which was perfect!).  The effort by Posta Tuscan Grille was prepared well and had good flavor, but ultimately did not have the same freshness or pack the same "punch" that the pasta from Vivace did.  I am not sure that the pasta was made fresh (as it was at Vivace), and the meat sauce could have used something to give it a slightly more pronounced, unique taste.  This isn't to say that I didn't enjoy the dish or that I'd tell friends to stay away from ordering it, but I know where I'd point you if you wanted the best version in Raleigh.

Someone looking for a good Italian meal in downtown Raleigh will be satisfied if they chose Posta Tuscan Grille; the food is solid, the prices aren't overly outlandish, and the convenience of location is strong.  I'd favor it over La Volta by a hair, mostly for atmosphere, but I'd say both can provide you with typical Italian food made right.  All of that said, if you want to experience a class above the standard "good" Italian that can be had several places across the area, I'd certainly point you towards Vivace or Il Palio.  That's less a knock on the others and more a compliment to the best, so don't avoid Posta Tuscan Grille... just don't raise the expectation bar too high.

Fairview Dining Room in Durham

Last night, Jessica and I ventured to the Washington Duke Inn to try the Fairview Dining Room, another restaurant on the top 30 N&O list that we have tackled in the past two years.  The restaurant overlooks the Duke University Golf Course and is decorated in a classy, traditional manner.  Guests are entertained by a live piano throughout their meal, and the service (at least in our case, with Michael, who had excellent recommendations and was on top of his game in helping us) is truly world class.

Beef tenderloin with blackberry and brie

Our meal started with an amuse bouche of beef tenderloin cooked rare with a blackberry over creamy brie.  Served on a small spoon, this single bite combined great beef flavor with the tartness of the blackberry and creaminess of the cheese.  I found mine perfectly salty and flavorful, an excellent way to begin our meal.

Both Jessica and I went with soups as our first course; she the special rosemary chicken noodle (very tasty with elbow macaroni pasta and chunks of chicken and vegetables) and me with the shrimp and corn bisque.  My soup had poached shrimp that were incredibly tender (more so than any I've ever made and probably than I've ever had anywhere) with mild flavor, coupled with full kernels of corn and vegetables.  The broth was just the right consistency; it was "soupy" enough to not feel heavy but thick enough to not be watery.  With each taste, the background flavor of the soup was highlighted by whatever specific ingredient was part of the bite; I especially liked the almost crunchiness of the corn.  As I neared the end of my bowl, I actually used the bread at the table (which was good but nothing special) to ensure I didn't waste a single drop.

Grouper with peppers and tomatoes

For main courses, we each tried a fish entree; Jessica went with the special mahi mahi (served with a citrus glaze, I actually liked hers slightly better with its seared preparation) and I had the grouper.  My fish was prepared perfectly; it was tender, flavorful, and flaky, just cooked through.  My dish was topped with a salad of Anaheim peppers and tomato confit, and Carolina ruby sweet potato hash below.  The peppers had a distinctly different taste from typical bell peppers, which I really enjoyed, and the potato hash was crisp on the outside, tender on the inside.  The tomatoes stole the show, though; they were firm but tender and had none of the acidity that I normally dislike from prepared tomatoes.  When I combined the grouper with the tomatoes, peppers, and avocado cream, I had the perfect bite as I envisioned the chef preparing it.  My only minor complaint would be that the fish wasn't as thoroughly seared as it could have been, but this is personally preference as Jessica preferred my preparation to hers.  Both of our dishes, though, were absolutely fantastic and some of the best we've had on our restaurant expeditions!

Jessica tried dessert, which was a delicious lemon tart.  It was served with sweet tea sorbet, that, while I disliked the flavor, I couldn't argue with the execution and preparation.

Overall, Fairview Dining Room was terrific; it immediately became one of our favorite restaurants in the area and a place we are sure to revisit.  The formal atmosphere is tempered by approachable service and clearly amazing food, allowing people who aren't as used to the jacket and tie crowd (I wore neither and didn't feel out of place) to enjoy themselves.  With views of the golf course at the Washington Duke Inn, the Fairview Dining Room really is a complete restaurant that delivers on all counts.

Vivace in North Hills

Last night, my mom, Jessica, and I went to Vivace to celebrate my 30th birthday while my mom was in town.  I had been once before several years ago but don't remember much about it, so we wanted to give it another try as it's another place on our list of best restaurants!

My pizza margherita

For starters, Jessica and my mom tried their caprese salad while I had the pizza magherita, and the three of us shared a meat and cheese tray.  I can't comment on the salad, but the pizza was excellent; the crust was crisp, the dough was chewy, and the ingredients were extremely fresh.  The cheese was particularly good; they seemed to use both fresh and aged mozzarella so there was the rich white color interspersed with the typical look.  I wouldn't even put Bella Mia's pie, often considered the best in the area, far ahead of the one I had at Vivace, it was that good.  As an added bonus, it was large enough to take home three of the six slices, which were equally tasty this morning.

Meat and cheese tray

The meat and cheese tray, comprised of genoa salami, prosciutto di parma, mortadella, parmigiano reggiano, pecorino, and robiola bosina (an Italian brie-style cheese), was fantastic as well.  All of the meats and cheeses came to the table freshly prepared, accompanied by an almond honey and another sweet currant sauce.  The salami and prosciutto (which, often served shaved thin and fairly lean, was served a bit thicker with plenty of delicious fat) were the winners from the meat side, while the parmigiano was my favorite from the cheese group.  My mom liked the robiola most, which was a recommendation from our server.  The only option that wasn't consumed quickly was the mortadella, which was still okay but nothing special.  Overall, this sampler tray was a huge success.

For dinner, I selected the basic pappardelle alla bolognese on recommendation from the server (who was great all night, and spot on with her suggestions).  Jessica had the grilled chicken orecchiette (which had cherries in the sauce, a terrific addition) and my mom had the lobster carbonara (which was good but came served room temperature before being returned, all of which was handled greatly by the staff).  The pasta portions, if ordering the large size, are enormous and enough for two meals, especially with the appetizers we had before our main courses.  My pasta dish was perfect; the pasta was prepared fresh and cooked exactly right while the meat sauce was flavorful without being heavy.  Sometimes the meat in a meat sauce is clumped and concentrated in certain areas, but this sauce had meat strewn throughout evenly, giving each bite a taste.  The goat cheese "crema" was a welcome addition, adding smooth texture and flavor to an already excellent dish.

We all shared their caramel apple gelato for dessert; it was a unique flavor that may not appeal to everyone but satisfied me with intense bursts of sugar!  For those looking for a standard gelato, though, this might not be the best option.

From it's modern decor and trendy atmosphere to its excellent service and fantastic food, Vivace makes a strong claim for the best Italian dining experience in the Triangle (Il Palio in Chapel Hill may still be a half-step above, simply from it's slightly higher-end food and service).  The simplicity of the menu underscored the intense flavor created in each bite of each dish.  Whether looking for a place to meet friends after work or a special date night, Vivace will deliver a complete Italian eating experience.