Sunday, September 25, 2011

Recent Dining Experiences


In the past several weeks, I've had the chance to eat twice in Clayton at Skylines Cafe (http://skylinescafe.com/), as well as go to Fleming's (http://www.flemingssteakhouse.com/) in Raleigh.  Without full reviews, I'll offer a couple of thoughts on both places...

Skylines

While Clayton is light in nicer restaurants, Skylines serves solid American food (steaks, seafood, pastas, etc.) without being too expensive.  Jessica and I have tried it twice, and I'd say it's one-for-two in my book with my meals. 

They consistently serve solid appetizers (calamari being one of the best) but their entrees are a bit hit and miss.  On my first trip, I had their jambalaya with chicken.  The dish had a one-note bland flavor of bell pepper and didn't have the strong variety of flavors (sausage, tomatoes, chicken) normally found in such a dish.  My second effort, though, introduced me to swai, a white fish that was breaded and served with a sweet lime-tequila sauce.  The fish was cooked perfectly, light but crispy from the breading, and the sauce was an ideal compliment to complete the dish.

Skylines does a good job with their lunch, and while the service can frequently be slower than you'd like, it's normally friendly.  For "foodies" in the Clayton area, it offers one of the few places to feel like you've stepped out of the typical chain restaurants and into a nicer dining establishment.

Fleming's

Fleming's, like Ruth's Chris, Morton's, and other "chain" high-end steakhouses, consistently puts out a good product.  They use quality beef and traditional preparation that always leaves me extremely satisfied at the end of the meal.  As I've gotten more into food, though, I feel that these steakhouses (and even many of the non-chains you can find around the country) are less appealing to me when compared with local restaurants offering more variety.  While the steakhouses all are very good, they lack the variety and creativity that I seek more often when I'm spending top dollar for dinner.

Fleming's, serving a very good but standard steak, does have a few menu items to separate themselves from others.  Their bread "butters", sundried tomato for one and chive / cream cheese-ish for the other, are both delectable.  I also highly recommend the chipotle macaroni and cheese, which is creamy, cheesy, but with a kick at the end that is quite unique.  I always enjoy their bone-in ribeye, a huge chunk of beef served medium rare with great flavor, but even this is something found at most good steak places.

More and more, I think steakhouses are starting to lose their grip on the "foodie" public.  While relying on the dark wood old school atmosphere, they are falling behind on food innovation and creativity.  I've seen more and more places start to offer steak options, such as dry aged versus wet aged, Wagyu beef, and other "special" cuts, but I believe the chefs at these places will need to really step ahead if they're to grow and continue to be fine dining destinations.

Buku in Raleigh



For dinner last night, Jessica and I tried Buku (http://bukuraleigh.com/buku/) in downtown Raleigh.  I had eaten dinner there once before, as well as brunch and lunch, but this was my first focused look at the former Fins chef's new effort.  We simplified the process by settling in at the bar rather than getting a table and enjoyed a great meal filled with such great variety and flavor.


Buku starters
To start, we sampled their world breads with three dipping sauces (cilantro chutney, mango habanero salsa, and raita) as well as their crunch tuna roll and Cambodia roll.  The breads were fantastic; they had Indian naan with thinly sliced onion as well as a pita type bread and something similar to a burrito shell but more hearty.  The supply was ample and everything came hot, seemingly straight from the oven.  I was not a fan of our chutney (cilantro is not my thing) but the raita and salsa were both excellent.  The raita was cool, smooth, thick, and refreshing while the salsa had a good fruit flavor and heat as an after taste that worked very well.

The rolls were good as well, although both could probably use a little tweaking to match my tastes.  I enjoyed the crunchy tuna roll very much but would next time favor the spicy tuna roll; I didn't like the roll being warm and while the tempura offered a crunchy texture, I don't think it was worth compromising the refreshing nature of cool sushi.  The Cambodia roll was filled with shrimp and a variety of vegetables; I felt it was exceptionally fresh, crunchy, and when paired with its spicy peanut dipping sauce, quite flavorful.  However, for me, I think spicing the shrimp or replacing it with marinated chicken (Jessica's idea!) could bring it to an even higher place.

Short ribs
Thankfully, Jessica and I ordered our meal as we went; at one point we planned to order far more food than we actually did but the portions were large and filling so we geared down.  After really enjoying our appetizers, we moved on to our main dishes.  Jessica ordered the sake-braised short ribs and I went with the cochinita pibil, which was essentially pork tacos with pickled onion and habanero salsa.  The short ribs were, without question, the highlight of our excellent meal.  The beef was beyond tender, with the fat truly melting into the meat to form a single consistency.  The sake and black sesame flavoring adding a sweetness to the beef, which is always my favorite combination with short ribs.  The tacos, while good, did not quite match the short ribs.  The pulled pork was tender and the corn tortillas were soft and fresh; I simply found that the habanero salsa could have been included slightly more.  In the bites where I had the sauce, pork, and onion together, I was very impressed.

Jessica had Buku's tiramisu for dessert; it came in a fancy glass and had the chocolate sauce poured down through the layers with fancy handy work from the server.  She immediately proclaimed it one of the best versions she's had, matching that at Il Palio in Chapel Hill.

On top of the wonderful food, our service at the Buku bar was excellent.  The bartender consistently provided us with great recommendations and ultimately shaped the meal we had.  She steered us to the short ribs, the tacos, the breads, and their sauces, probably the four highlights of the meal.

Every aspect of our Buku experience was top-notch; we loved the food, the atmosphere, and the service.  It is the rare restaurant, because of the small plates concept, that allows the diner to sample so many different world flavors to truly have a unique meal.  Going back, we could select a completely different menu and I suspect still be wildly satisfied.  For those who like international food, or those looking to expand their palate, few places could offer what Buku does.


Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Chart House on Hilton Head Island


Each year, my family goes to Hilton Head for vacation over Labor Day.  One night of each week, we try a new restaurant to sample some of the island's fine seafood dining.  We have tried restaurants on coves, near the ocean; restaurants old and new, but nothing has matched this year's dinner at Chart House (http://www.chart-house.com/), located on the north end of the island.  This year, we went to celebrate my uncle's birthday, but for any reason or excuse, this is the best place we've been!

To start, the service was excellent.  Our waitress was extremely attentive and helpful with recommendations, although she was probably a tiny bit talkative for the table.  Our glasses were always kept full, the bread service (including fantastic fresh-baked poppy seed rolls as well as sweet cornbread and jalapeno biscuits) was fast, and each entree came piping hot and exactly as ordered.  I felt like we were neither rushed nor ignored, which is always tough at busy restaurants.

Our table ordered the fried calamari and fried green tomatoes as starters.  The calamari came with assorted other fried items (peppers, sweet potatoes, plantains) and was quite tender and flavorful.  I didn't notice any greasy taste or texture with the squid but felt the sweet dipping sauce could have used a bit more spice as a compliment.  The fried green tomatoes were equally good; the crisp breading wasn't soaked with oil and remained crunchy throughout eating.  I thought that the tomatoes were less acidic and more "meaty" (both good things) than other varieties of this dish that I've tried.  Overall, the appetizers and bread were a great start to our meal.

For my main course, I was overcome with choices but went with the spicy yellowfin tuna served with wasabi mashed potatoes.  Additionally, two sauces (wasabi cream and ginger soy) dressed the plate and added complimentary taste without covering the tuna at all.  The tuna itself was seared rare and served with blackening spice that was a thin coating perfect for the thickness of the tuna.  The meaty, mild flavor of the rare tuna was the best I've had (possibly tied with 42nd Street Oyster Bar randomly) and all of the accompaniments really added to the overall dish.  I loved the mashed potatoes, particularly with the variety of sauces, but didn't notice a lot of difference between these and the standard mashed Yukons served.

While my meal was perfect, I was fortunate enough to try several others from my family; mahi mahi, crispy redfish, and stuffed shrimp.  All were topped decadently with lump crab and various sauces that gave richness to already delicious seafood.  I couldn't pick a favorite really, all had great parts to them, but I was surprised most by the stuffed shrimp, which I typically find to be basic and bland (these were not; the spices and crab stuffing really carried a lot of taste adding to large, flavorful shrimp).  All in all, I didn't have a single bite during my meal that wasn't amazing.

The Chart House set a new standard for our family in Hilton Head dining.  Few restaurants in Raleigh or anywhere else outside of New York really compare in my opinion.  We've tried many of the best places on the island here but to a person, we're all excited to come back to the Chart House next year to see what they offer next!