Sunday, April 3, 2011

1895 Grille in Pinehurst

On a recent trip to Pinehurst, friends and I had the pleasure to dine at 1895 Grille (http://www.pinehurst.com/pdf/1895GrilleWinter101221.pdf), one of several nice restaurants in the area.  Set in the Holly Inn near other shops in Pinehurst, the 1895 Grille was traditional fine dining done well; well-decorated with dark wood trim and atmosphere that was quiet but not too stuffy for conversation at the table.  The service was spectacular throughout, always one step ahead of questions and offering fantastic recommendations on the menu.

For my starter, I had their ahi tuna, which is seared tuna served with tuna tartar.  Accompanying the two tunas was an avocado salad and sweet peach sauce.  The seared tuna was perfect; just cooked at the edges but raw and flavorful in the middle.  The tartar was equally delicious; the stack of diced tuna was chilled and worked great with the avocado and sweet sauce.  The two tuna preparations successfully offered surprisingly different flavors, something that is tough to pull off using one fish; I preferred the seared tuna but only slightly as both were fantastic.

The bread service here would be the highlight of many restaurants, except that here the appetizer and main course was so well-prepared that it was overshadowed.  I tried both the rosemary-asiago bread and the sweet potato biscuit; they featured the flavors in their names to perfection and could have been my whole meal without much complaint!

Shrimp and Scallops
For my main course, I tried the shrimp and scallop duet.  Two large Panama shrimp and two huge seared scallops were served over a sweet corn and crab risotto, as well as a potato "risotto" served with bacon.  Both the shrimp and scallops were cooked perfectly; the shrimp was tender and sweet (as opposed to rubbery, which can happen with larger varieties) and the scallops were almost crisp on one edge and then just barely warmed through.  I'd be hard pressed to think of better cooked shellfish than this.  As good as the main proteins were, the risottos stole the show.  The crab and corn version was fairly standard but big in flavor, as large pieces of crab and kernels of corn were scattered throughout.  The potato version, which was basically small diced potatoes served with bacon and possibly prepared in bacon fat, was at a whole different level.  It truly may be the best side dish I've tried; the potatoes were tender and the bacon flavor was prominent but not overpowering.  The meal as a whole combined mild and strong flavors, as well as different textures, amazingly.

For dessert, I had their creme brulee.  It was good and fairly typical of others I've tried.  While I don't normally get a dessert, this acted as a good finale to an amazing meal.

The 1895 Grille delivered on every dish they served; they were able to pair familiar flavors with newer presentations to give the diner a unique experience.  Whether you are in the area for a weekend of golf or simply willing to visit for a magnificent meal, you will not go wrong coming here for a special dinner.

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