Saturday, April 9, 2011

Fairview Dining Room in Durham


Last night, Jessica and I ventured to the Washington Duke Inn to try the Fairview Dining Room, another restaurant on the top 30 N&O list that we have tackled in the past two years.  The restaurant overlooks the Duke University Golf Course and is decorated in a classy, traditional manner.  Guests are entertained by a live piano throughout their meal, and the service (at least in our case, with Michael, who had excellent recommendations and was on top of his game in helping us) is truly world class.

Beef tenderloin with blackberry and brie
Our meal started with an amuse bouche of beef tenderloin cooked rare with a blackberry over creamy brie.  Served on a small spoon, this single bite combined great beef flavor with the tartness of the blackberry and creaminess of the cheese.  I found mine perfectly salty and flavorful, an excellent way to begin our meal.

Both Jessica and I went with soups as our first course; she the special rosemary chicken noodle (very tasty with elbow macaroni pasta and chunks of chicken and vegetables) and me with the shrimp and corn bisque.  My soup had poached shrimp that were incredibly tender (more so than any I've ever made and probably than I've ever had anywhere) with mild flavor, coupled with full kernels of corn and vegetables.  The broth was just the right consistency; it was "soupy" enough to not feel heavy but thick enough to not be watery.  With each taste, the background flavor of the soup was highlighted by whatever specific ingredient was part of the bite; I especially liked the almost crunchiness of the corn.  As I neared the end of my bowl, I actually used the bread at the table (which was good but nothing special) to ensure I didn't waste a single drop.

Grouper with peppers and tomatoes
For main courses, we each tried a fish entree; Jessica went with the special mahi mahi (served with a citrus glaze, I actually liked hers slightly better with its seared preparation) and I had the grouper.  My fish was prepared perfectly; it was tender, flavorful, and flaky, just cooked through.  My dish was topped with a salad of Anaheim peppers and tomato confit, and Carolina ruby sweet potato hash below.  The peppers had a distinctly different taste from typical bell peppers, which I really enjoyed, and the potato hash was crisp on the outside, tender on the inside.  The tomatoes stole the show, though; they were firm but tender and had none of the acidity that I normally dislike from prepared tomatoes.  When I combined the grouper with the tomatoes, peppers, and avocado cream, I had the perfect bite as I envisioned the chef preparing it.  My only minor complaint would be that the fish wasn't as thoroughly seared as it could have been, but this is personally preference as Jessica preferred my preparation to hers.  Both of our dishes, though, were absolutely fantastic and some of the best we've had on our restaurant expeditions!

Jessica tried dessert, which was a delicious lemon tart.  It was served with sweet tea sorbet, that, while I disliked the flavor, I couldn't argue with the execution and preparation.

Overall, Fairview Dining Room was terrific; it immediately became one of our favorite restaurants in the area and a place we are sure to revisit.  The formal atmosphere is tempered by approachable service and clearly amazing food, allowing people who aren't as used to the jacket and tie crowd (I wore neither and didn't feel out of place) to enjoy themselves.  With views of the golf course at the Washington Duke Inn, the Fairview Dining Room really is a complete restaurant that delivers on all counts.

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